Відео

Excellent video nice job!

What a waste of my time. You literally said you wouldrecommend some better kits and named zero. I watched this longwinded,crybaby ass rant for nothing.

I used to have these exact symptoms, and eventual failure, on my 1991 v6 3.0 4Runner. It turns out that it was the Ignitor. The Ignitor & the coil are both connected by the same bracket. It was an ongoing problem for about 2 years till it completely failed & would no longer start. Oh & by the way, I do have a 1990 Miata, 1.6 that is ready for the paint job, & I'm currently waiting for the machine shop to call me, to pick up my engine block & cylinder head for me to assemble & reinstall on my miata. Anyways, while on the freeway, the same thing would happen to me as with your gal's Miata, suddenly a violent quick stall that would just as fast would reignite the engine. This was usually at 65mph or higher, so obviously mostly on the freeway. And just like your Miata, the high speed at which this would happen, would have momentum enough to quickly reignite the engine. And since my 4Runner is stickshift, it was like push-starting the vehicle but at freeway speeds. Once it left me stranded, my friend & I immediately knew it was the igniter. I ran the pre-OBD2 self diagnostics, & sure enough, it gave a code for the ignitor. I couldn't find the extra OEM ignitor that I jacked from the junkyard, so I bought one from Oreilly's. Turned on right away. I got to point out something else, a part that is similar to the Miata & the 2nd generation 4Runners. That's the AFM, Air Flow Meter, which is frequently confused with the MAF, Mas Air Flow sensor. Both serve the same purpose but the MAF was or is the newer version of the AFM, as I understand it. When this MAF starts giving problems, it can be confused with the CAS problems because they are intermitten problems...once in a while, till it gets worse, then leave you stranded. It will also have you chasing your tail...changing fuel pump, relays, fuel dampners, etc. till it fully fails & leaves you stranded. Good thing is that here in Southern California we have an abundance of junked cars, dry, not rusted nor ruined from salted snowed-in roads. Unfortunately since these same generation cars have parts that are as old as yours, the life expectancy is similar & soon enough I found myself trading in my junkyard replacement for a NAPA remanufactures AFM, which is still good today. If i ever go through these same problems on my miata, at least I know the likely culprit of the problem.

Just to clarify 123ignition never says to not use a timing light. The Green LED is only to get you staticly close to TDC on #1 compression stroke. Sometimes the rotor is between two spark plug lugs on the cap. In that case the next one in rotation is your new #1 and the plug wires should be installed from that new #1 according to the cars firing order. Having someone crank the motor and turning the distributor until it fires is a great way to speed up the process. But remember to always sync the timing on the app with the motor. Here Are A Couple Ways To Help You Sync The App With The Motor. 1) Set a program in your app to 12* across all rpm points. Start the motor and verify that you have 12* at the crank. If you do not simply loosen the distributor and turn it until you do. Once you have 12* at the crank, tighten the distributor down. The app is now synchronized with the motor and you can now confidently add a program of your choice and know that it is accurate. or 2) Pick any point along the curve and verify with a timing light that the point on the app (both the rpm and degree) is the same at the crank. If not loosen the distributor and turn it until you do. Then tighten the distributor down.

I have the shiny sniper and my FPR was full of black substance. I have in tank pump with sock, after pump filter and a before carb filter. So where did this stuff come from ?? I believe today’s gas is breaking down the hoses inside and making the mess.. just my opinion. So I’m going to run all new steel lines and eliminate the hoses.

Thank you for this video. So helpful and answered the specific questions we had. Wish we would have watched earlier.

How do you keep the fan from coming on during cranking?

How do I use this time delay relay😊 I love the idea is very important

It is BOTH a cam position sensor AND a CRANKSHAFT position sensor. It is driven by the camshaft, but if it only had the cam signal, it wouldn't know where the piston was. The Miata CAS has two rows of circles cut into a disc. The outer row has 4 symmetrical slots and this is the spark signal for the four cylinders. The inner row has two holes or slots, one being 3 times larger than the other. This gives it a dot - dash sort of signal. The two inputs together tell the ecu relative piston position and which cylinder to fire. Some CAS are Hall Affect sensors and some are optical with diodes. Both have a shutter type system. BTW, our Mazda Miata CAS is made by Mitsubishi.

Where did u run vaccum to?

Still enjoying this kit?

Great video! Can ezefi support an itb setup? Just curious. Thanks in advance

Any pics of where you mounted subs?

Wow, just saw this was 5 years ago! Im looking at installing an electric fan and there is literrally no one that makes a kit for a 67 Mustang.

Solid video

A lot of these symptoms are what my 95 Miata is experiencing right now. The car would run and drive fine, but when I would put it in neutral and coast, the RPM's would drop very low and sometimes stall. This wasn't a super bad issue until just a few days ago when I was starting it to go to class, it started, proceeded to shutter and die and now I can't get it started. I am assuming its the CAS, any ideas?

Great info, very articulated. I will buy the better kit cuz....fuk all that

is there a risk of throwing off the timing when taking the CAS out and putting in a new one?

Did this project require an additional port being added to the intake manifold somewhere to support the idle air control valve? If yes, where was it located? Thanks in advance.

what is the torque on the upper control arm bushing nuts? Can the upper control arm shaft be easily serviced/replaced.

Whose aluminum fuel tank are you using? Boyd's?

$2,000 + dollars. Hmmm.

Good tips - like it you got to the point.

Can I use this product with A four speed tranny

Does there need to be any kind of cap over the hole at the base of the piston where you connected the air compressor to extend the piston or that just stays open??

I've been having a similar issue with my VVT swapped 91. It'd stumble at both idle and load. Since I'm running a Megasquirt ECU, there was a "sync loss 31" in the data log, which points to the cam sensor. Apparently they're prone to failure on the NB's, but from doing some research, Mazda has updated the design in recent years, so the failures aren't nearly as common.

So, those big fender vents on the gen 3 viper are fake vents?

Do the camshafts have to be placed back the same exact way it came off ?

So what would be the reason my single ground temp switch doesn’t turn my fans on but if i unhook it and touch it to ground , it works perfectly .. the ground wire is directly mounted into the relay ground

Useless video. "I need to figure out the best place to put the wire. I finally found the perfect spot. I'm not going to show it though. Good luck everyone else. I dont know why I made this video"

How do you access the grease fittings?

Thanks! My knob just broke and I ordered new ones from Moss. Didn't realize how easy it was to change just the knob...G-d I love UA-cam videos and guys like you...thanks again...

Easier than i thought... will be doing mine this weekend

That’s why u have Holley retrobright, Holley and morimoto collab and they make a period correct led sealed beam type headlights. And they are excellent for classic cars.

Why not run external regulator?

I want to put a 292 in my Miata

You should have got a 3 code

I have a 1992 Miata with a 1.8 engine swap and basically whole drivetrain from a 1994 model. I had a similar issue, was driving and hit a rather bumpy patch of the road and immediately after the tach dropped to zero and it felt like the whole engine turned off while I was still doing about 40 miles an hour. The engine turned back on in like a split second. But after that incident it did it 4 more times on the way home and every incident got a little bit worse and sketchier. When I pulled in my driveway the car was idling fine but the fuel pump was making a weird noise. Almost sounds like a washing machine running in the distance if that makes sense. Does this sound like a CAS issue to y’all? Any recommendations? Thanks for any input I really appreciate it.

I bought a ISIS-Power/Infinitybox ages ago for my MkIV Supra and haven't been happy with it. I'm already using an EMU Black so I think installing the PMU16 is a no-brainer. You're running the whole car with a singe 16-output box? I think my current Infinitybox setup can handle 20 circuits (10 front, 10 back), mostly using the front ones.

Hi, Thank’s, i ‘ve to do the same thing. I just removed the valve cover but i’m blocked with the cam. Before to take-off the pulley you do not make marks on the belt and pulleys? Thank you for your answer, i have my head in the engine 😂

I just went through all this with a sniper unit intermittent running issues on stalling..took apart to check the regulator put a gauge on it 75 PSI. all the powdercoating inside the regulator area was coming off. super poor design !!! spend 2 hrs with a Dremel and small pic removing every trace of powdercoat. I'd already plumbed return line otherwise I would have used a wix LS fuel filter if I'd known that's the PSI needed. I removed all the holley regulator and installed a aeromotive one w/ a guage.. so far hasn't not started yet.. Holley should honestly have to recall every sniper that's been powder-coated because it's going to be a problem for every single one eventually

It may be coming from powder coating breaking down within the fuel pressure regulator area

Outstanding video and presentation.

Outstanding video and presentation.

My NA was running a little hot, but mostly fine... Suddenly died at low rpm while *descending* a hill... Couldn't get it to start again. Cranks hard but no juice. Faulty CAS?

Quick question I have a 2006 Mazda Miata and it dies while driving, I’ve replace gas pump, the switch at the end of the key switch but still dies. I clean the throttle body too. Is automatic though does my car have that part you replace in your girlfriend’s car?

not looking foward to this

I rebuilt the lifters yesterday and primed all of them with oil and they are still ticking, do I need to let them “run in” at all? Please help.

Great Video and clear explanation, i have a qn to ask, Made a mistake mixed my lifters together, its hydrolic lifters for elantra j2 1997, how do i get them to be at the right platform or how will i know which ones are for the exhaust and which its for the intake

I have a 66, but mine is an automatic transmission too. What do I need to do differently?